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This Saturday, September 15, Mexican-Americans will initiate their celebration of Mexican Independence Day by remembering “El Grito de Dolores,” a call to arms uttered originally by the revolutionary priest Miguel Hidalgo in the town of Dolores, Guanajuato. “El Grito” signified the beginning of the ten-year Mexican fight for independence from Spain, but over time it has become a cultural symbol for the success of that struggle.


In the Pilsen and Little Village areas of Chicago, neighborhoods that carry the cultural roots of the city’s Mexican-American population, the celebrations will last long into the night on Saturday and continue all Sunday long. If you are up for a cultural adventure, join in on one of the parades Saturday or Sunday. The Pilsen celebration of El Grito de Independencia takes place from 5-10pm at Harrison Park.

If you just realized for the first time that Cinco De Mayo is not the same as Mexican Independence Day, then why not ease your way into the experience by walking down 18th Street in Pilsen and sampling some of the best Mexican food in Chicago?

Your Pilsen Paseo starts at 18th and Halsted and moves west on 18th St to Paulina.

Tacos Palacios, 700 S. Halsted-


There are few "undiscovered" restaurants in Pilsen and this is one of them. Located at the east end of Pilsen, close to the intersection of 18th and Halsted, Palacios is a tiny family-style breakfast and lunch counter that serves the best beans in the neighborhood. The woman who cooks them runs the place herself and cooks every meal to order in a flash. Go for breakfast and have the huevos con chorizo with a café con leche. If you go at lunch, get a huge burrito to go. The meal will run you about $5.

Carnitas Don Pedro, 1113 W. 18th St.-


Carnitas Don Pedro is a landmark in Chicago's southwest side Mexican-American community. Don Pedro provides carry-out, by the pound, traditional-style carnitas. The Duarte family also operates a full-service butcher shop from the same storefront. Carnitas in the United States are often served as shredded pork with caramelized onions. At Don Pedro, Sabas Vega, and the other Pilsen spots, carnitas just means pork, sold by the pound, cooked in its own fat until it's tender enough to melt in your mouth. Carnitas are served with piles of corn tortillas, a variety of salsas, and sometimes a dish of nopales (pickled cactus). If you like meat-and really like pork-visit Don Pedro with friends and get a couple pounds of the good stuff. Plan on napping afterwards. If you're adventurous, sample the tacos de sesos (brains) or the chicharron (fried pork rind.) Carnitas are $5.80/lb.

Birria Reyes Ocotlan, 1322 W. 18th St.-

Birria is the traditional goat stew served in the state of Guadalajara. Reyes Ocotlan, run by the Reyes family since 1978, has the best birria you can get that's not served on a hillside near Jalisco out of an army pot. Birria is goat meat cooked in its own seasoned broth, but that description doesn't do justice to this regional soul food. At Reyes Ocotlan you can order your tacos separate, tasty moist bundles of meat wrapped in warm corn tortillas, and then have your consommé on the side, a light and delicious broth flavored with garlic. The meal will run you $5 even and you will never forget it. If you are really up for a party you can buy a whole goat for $215.00. Birria is $10.50/lb.

Tacos Azteca, 1836 S. Blue Island-


There are hundreds of taquerias in Pilsen and everyone has their own favorites. Mine are Tacos Azteca and Los Comales #3. Azteca, located right next to local market Casa Del Pueblo, has vinyl booths and a jukebox that plays unrequited love songs. Their salsas are delicious and you could get full just eating the three varieties on your table with chips. What makes Azteca special is that it is cheap, fast, reliable, and tasty. Have a gordita con rayas y queso, get sides of cebollitas (little fried onions) and guacamole (theirs is the best when the avos are in season.) You can spend as little or as much as you want here. The tacos are huge, though, and two is enough, which is why many of the Pilsen artistas hang here.

Nuevo Leon, 1515 W. 18th St.-

Many people know of Pilsen because of Nuevo Leon. It is an institution, one of those family restaurant businesses that has turned into an empire. The food is really nothing to write home about, but everyone goes for the atmosphere anyway. You can hob-nob with local politicians, priests, and partiers all in the same place. I really like their menudo , the ultimate hangover food, but most gringos aren't that into tripe. Nuevo Leon is open all night and has its own parking lot. I know a lot of people who swear by their refried beans but I think they are too greasy. A meal will cost you around $10.

Los Comales #3, 1544 W. 18th St.-


Los Comales #3 is part of a chain of authentic Mexican-style taquerias that serves the whole range of tacos pretty much like you would have them in Mexico. The efficiency of Los Comales is beautiful in itself. It's a large well-lit cafeteria room filled with booths. The waitresses are fast and pleasant. The salsa is hot and you get a giant jar of pickled peppers on your table. You can eat tongue (lengua) or tripe if you're up for it, or you can just get the carne asada. Los Comales is known for their bebidas (drinks). Have an agua de Jamaica, sweet hibiscus punch, to wash down your food as you soak in true Mexican fast food culture.

Fogata Village, 1820 S. Ashland St.-


Pilsen is not really known for its fine dining, but Fogata Village and Mundial Cocina both qualify. Locals, from parishioners to activistas, swear by Fogata Village, because the husband and wife team of Agustin and Eugenia Bahena prepares all of the food with care and attention to detail. The menu is huge and varied. Try the caldo de mariscos (soup packed with fresh seafood), or the mole teloloapan, a classic dish from their home state of Guerrero. Fogata Village has a lunch buffet everyday for $9 that features favorites like guisado de res, chilaquiles, and puerco en salsa verde. The atmosphere is clean and homey. The meal will end up costing around $15, but you will not want to eat again for days. Fogata will be packed with prominent citizens on Saturday night.

Mundial Cocina, 1640 W. 18th St.-

Mundial Cocina is the new kid on the block of Pilsen restaurants. It's the first fusion restaurant in the neighborhood, and the menu interprets many traditional Mexican favorites. The restaurant has gotten a lot of attention from outsiders, but the verdict is still out with the locals. I really liked the quesadilla with huitlacoche (corn fungus) and really didn't like the goat cheese ravioli. Mundial offers a quaint dining room atmosphere and it's BYOB, so it's a great affordable place to celebrate a birthday party. Many of my friends who live outside of Pilsen love the place and I am told the meat entrees are very good.


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